Denali National Park, Ruth Glacier, Alaska - Posted May 2008.
The Ruth Glacier is one of large glaciers that has sculpted the flanks of some of the great peaks in Denali National Park. The glacier begins at Denali and sinuously flows down valley, growing larger as it merges with smaller tributary glaciers. Thirty miles later to the south of Denali the glacier terminates at a moraine boulder field and the braided Chulitna River.
About midway down the glacier is The Ruth Gorge, or "The Gorge" as locals call it. The Gorge earns its name from the escarpments of granite, snow, and ice that tower some 5,000 feet above the surface of the ice. Some of these guardians include The Mooses [sic] Tooth, Mt. Dickey, Mt. Barrille, and Mt. Bradley. The United States Geological Survey renamed the Mooses Tooth (albeit without the grammatically correct apostrophe) to reflect a translation of the original Athabascan name. At The Gorge, the glacial ice is close to a mile thick, over a mile wide, and moves at over three feet a day. The relatively low elevations, easy access by bush plane, and copious climbable peaks, has made The Gorge a destination for world-class climbers.
My partner Jason Kuo and I flew from Talkeeta, Alaska, into The Gorge in Paul Roderick's (Talkeetna Air Taxi) 1955 single-engine DeHavilland Beaver. We loaded the Beaver with 1,000 lbs. of gear into the cargo hold for 20 days of climbing in The Gorge.
Tuesday, November 4, 2008
Clip 2 - Travel Writing Sample - Alpamayo
Alpamayo, Cordillera Blanca, Peru - Posted July 2008
After seven days of approaching and climbing Alpamayo, we had descended to the trail head at the village of Quechapampa by 5 p.m. My partner, Brad, and I were worried about missing the last cambi (inexpensive public minibus) for the three hour ride back to Huaraz. Brad was leaving for Lima the following day, so it was urgent that we make it back to Huaraz that night. Just as we arrived at the trail head, we serendipitously met two French climbers hiking out. Their English and Spanish were not much better than my non-existent French. Immediately I knew we needed the French guys to help us obtain an affordable ride to Huaraz. Seconds later, two taxi´s arrive, one from each direction on the one-lane dirt road that constitutes most of Quechapampa. All taxi's in Peru are small white Toyota Corollas with impossibly small tires. There we stood, juxtaposition in the road - 1 trail head, 2 dirty Americans, 2 dirty French, 2 identical taxis facing hood to hood, 2 taxi drivers, 1 arriero (our donkey driver), 1 overloaded small donkey, and 4 idling compensinos (local peasants). The negotiations began with all of us huddled over the hood of a taxi - the taxi drivers argued 180 Soles for the ride to Huaraz, the Americans demanded no more than 70, the French obtained an expensive rate from one driver to the wrong village, the compensinos teased the drivers for overcharging the gringos, the donkey was tired, the drivers were trying not to compete and lower the price, the arriero told the Americans it should cost 120, the Americans insisted the French join them, the French were still negotiating a two person fare to the wrong village, the arriero smiled and laughed, the drivers began to look nervous, the Americans pretended to walk away in disgust, one driver broke down to 140 Soles, the Americans emphatically convinced the French that the 4 of us need to take the 140. Deal done.
After seven days of approaching and climbing Alpamayo, we had descended to the trail head at the village of Quechapampa by 5 p.m. My partner, Brad, and I were worried about missing the last cambi (inexpensive public minibus) for the three hour ride back to Huaraz. Brad was leaving for Lima the following day, so it was urgent that we make it back to Huaraz that night. Just as we arrived at the trail head, we serendipitously met two French climbers hiking out. Their English and Spanish were not much better than my non-existent French. Immediately I knew we needed the French guys to help us obtain an affordable ride to Huaraz. Seconds later, two taxi´s arrive, one from each direction on the one-lane dirt road that constitutes most of Quechapampa. All taxi's in Peru are small white Toyota Corollas with impossibly small tires. There we stood, juxtaposition in the road - 1 trail head, 2 dirty Americans, 2 dirty French, 2 identical taxis facing hood to hood, 2 taxi drivers, 1 arriero (our donkey driver), 1 overloaded small donkey, and 4 idling compensinos (local peasants). The negotiations began with all of us huddled over the hood of a taxi - the taxi drivers argued 180 Soles for the ride to Huaraz, the Americans demanded no more than 70, the French obtained an expensive rate from one driver to the wrong village, the compensinos teased the drivers for overcharging the gringos, the donkey was tired, the drivers were trying not to compete and lower the price, the arriero told the Americans it should cost 120, the Americans insisted the French join them, the French were still negotiating a two person fare to the wrong village, the arriero smiled and laughed, the drivers began to look nervous, the Americans pretended to walk away in disgust, one driver broke down to 140 Soles, the Americans emphatically convinced the French that the 4 of us need to take the 140. Deal done.
Clip 3 - Cultural Writing Sample
"WKRP in Cincinnati" - Posted August 2008
"WKRP in Cincinnati" was a television sitcom from the mid-1970´s that was shown in voluminous syndication during the 1980´s. WKRP were the call letters for a struggling radio station that played rock music and some news. One of the disc jockeys was Johnny Fever. Johnny wore red tinted sunglasses when inside the WKRP office, as well as in the darkened studio. Johnny´s other omnipresent characteristics included long hair, a large coffee mug gripped by a cocked arm, and a black band t-shirt. Johnny was usually nursing a hangover with a demeanor suggestive of self medication. Johnny had an apathetic way of addressing his radio audience as he was convinced no one was listening to the broadcast. He was so convinced that during one episode he decided to speak an unutterable word on the air to prove no one was listening. He leaned close to the microphone and maybe even raised his sunglasses to his forehead and said¨"Booger!". Of course, there were a few folks listening and Johnny was summoned to the bosses office and fired.
I suspect only a few friends and family are also reading this blog so.....BOOGER!!! Okay, I have to get back to Peru.
"WKRP in Cincinnati" was a television sitcom from the mid-1970´s that was shown in voluminous syndication during the 1980´s. WKRP were the call letters for a struggling radio station that played rock music and some news. One of the disc jockeys was Johnny Fever. Johnny wore red tinted sunglasses when inside the WKRP office, as well as in the darkened studio. Johnny´s other omnipresent characteristics included long hair, a large coffee mug gripped by a cocked arm, and a black band t-shirt. Johnny was usually nursing a hangover with a demeanor suggestive of self medication. Johnny had an apathetic way of addressing his radio audience as he was convinced no one was listening to the broadcast. He was so convinced that during one episode he decided to speak an unutterable word on the air to prove no one was listening. He leaned close to the microphone and maybe even raised his sunglasses to his forehead and said¨"Booger!". Of course, there were a few folks listening and Johnny was summoned to the bosses office and fired.
I suspect only a few friends and family are also reading this blog so.....BOOGER!!! Okay, I have to get back to Peru.
Sunday, September 28, 2008
Huanchaco
Huanchaco is a small sleepy surf town about 15 minutes from Trujillo. it is way chill, the beach is very inviting and i initially came for just 3 days but ended up staying 7! temps have largely been excellent, wtih some sun and clouds. i really liked it here. so relaxing and small and athe beach super nice.
surfed some, saw a few ruins like Chan Chan and Huaca del Sol y Luna. read alot on the beach, got sunburned, met new friends, went with some new friends and guys from my surf shop to a discoteca last night until 5 am. the type of place with a line of folks trying to get in that streatched around the block, had multiple rooms, a band, and a dance club room (which had 6 elevated cages with scantily clad woman dancing! just like in the movies!). needless to say, we spent most of the night in the dance club room.
now, i am off to Trujillo today, Sunday, to see museums, then catch a night bus back to Lima, see one more acheological site on Monday, then i fly out that night back home!
surfed some, saw a few ruins like Chan Chan and Huaca del Sol y Luna. read alot on the beach, got sunburned, met new friends, went with some new friends and guys from my surf shop to a discoteca last night until 5 am. the type of place with a line of folks trying to get in that streatched around the block, had multiple rooms, a band, and a dance club room (which had 6 elevated cages with scantily clad woman dancing! just like in the movies!). needless to say, we spent most of the night in the dance club room.
now, i am off to Trujillo today, Sunday, to see museums, then catch a night bus back to Lima, see one more acheological site on Monday, then i fly out that night back home!
Huaca del Sol y Luna
Most of these pics are from archeological site south of Trujillo, Huaca del Sol y Luna. It consists of 4 pyramids built one on top of the other. On the outside of each pyramid were terraces painted with friezes on the adobe bricks. the friezes depict some daily life but mostly gods, kings, spiders, snakes, fighting scenes, slaves, etc. The people who made these were the Moche people who dominated the north coast of Peru from about 200 AD to 700 AD.
To get to Huaca del Sol y Luna, it took me 2 hours of riding in combis (small Toyota minibuses used for public transport and fit up to 25 folks), wandering around Trujillo asking for directions to the next aleged combi. cost was about $0.75 and boy was i was crammed in there!
To get to Huaca del Sol y Luna, it took me 2 hours of riding in combis (small Toyota minibuses used for public transport and fit up to 25 folks), wandering around Trujillo asking for directions to the next aleged combi. cost was about $0.75 and boy was i was crammed in there!
Monday, September 22, 2008
The Racine Kringle
Racine Kringle is a flat oval Danish pastry with a hole in the middle, about one and one-half feet in diameter and one inch thick. The dough is flaky and often filled with fruit, chocolate, pecan, or almond. Vanilla or chocolate iceing usually covers the top like the drippy coating on a doughnut.
Kringle is only found in Racine, Wisconsin, so I reverently refer to it as The Racine Kringle. The people of Racine have great pride in their Kringle and each gets them from their own favorite Danish bakery, much like their own favorite linebacker with the Greenbay Packers. It takes three days to make The Racine Kringle, and it is always purchased on thin white waxy paperboard wrapped in wax paper.
Last holiday season I was leaving Wisconsin with 3 kringles carefully wrapped in a carbboard box specifially designed for shipping The Racine Kringle without damage. The box was marked with my favorite bakerys logo on all sides and top. The kringle box didnt go in my luggage or even my carry-on. Rather, i carried it through the airport. At the security line, the lady checing ID{s and tickets made a wise crack comment on "The Danish" she called it. Wrong name lady. As I placed the box on teh conveyer for X-raying, the land of serious security and no joking around, even though everyone resists the urge to make bomb jokes. The head security officer for the x-ray area slooshes his overweight frame slowy toward me like a homicide detective with questions. Hands on his hips, he looks at me over his glasses from eyes that are a little too close together and says in a slow, serious tone, oozing with Wisconin accent, "Yah know, Kringles been known to dissapear in them x-ray machines."
Kringle is only found in Racine, Wisconsin, so I reverently refer to it as The Racine Kringle. The people of Racine have great pride in their Kringle and each gets them from their own favorite Danish bakery, much like their own favorite linebacker with the Greenbay Packers. It takes three days to make The Racine Kringle, and it is always purchased on thin white waxy paperboard wrapped in wax paper.
Last holiday season I was leaving Wisconsin with 3 kringles carefully wrapped in a carbboard box specifially designed for shipping The Racine Kringle without damage. The box was marked with my favorite bakerys logo on all sides and top. The kringle box didnt go in my luggage or even my carry-on. Rather, i carried it through the airport. At the security line, the lady checing ID{s and tickets made a wise crack comment on "The Danish" she called it. Wrong name lady. As I placed the box on teh conveyer for X-raying, the land of serious security and no joking around, even though everyone resists the urge to make bomb jokes. The head security officer for the x-ray area slooshes his overweight frame slowy toward me like a homicide detective with questions. Hands on his hips, he looks at me over his glasses from eyes that are a little too close together and says in a slow, serious tone, oozing with Wisconin accent, "Yah know, Kringles been known to dissapear in them x-ray machines."
Sunday, September 21, 2008
WKRP
"WKRP in Cinncinati" was a mid-1970´s television sitcom that was shown in voluminous syndication during the 1980´s, when i was a child watching about 6 hours of TV a day. WKRP was the call name for a struggleing radio staiton that played a variety of rock music as well as news. One of the disc jockys was Johnny Fever, who wore rose tinted sunglasses inside the WKRP office, as well as in the darkened studio. Johnny´s other omnipresent characteristics included long graying hair, a large coffee mug gripped by a cocked arm, and a black band t-shirt. Johnny was usually nurseing a hangover with a demeanure suggesting he medicated himself every morning. Johnny had an apathetic lethargic way of addressing his audience because he was convinced no one was listening to his broadcast. He was so convinced of this that during one episode he decided to speak an un-utterable word on the air to prove that no one was listening. He leaned close to the microphone and maybe even raised his glasses to his forehead and said¨"Booger!". Of course, there were a few folks listening and Johnny was summoned to the bosses office and fired.
i suspect only a few friends and family are also reading this blog so.....BOOGER!!!
ok, i have to get back to Peru.
i suspect only a few friends and family are also reading this blog so.....BOOGER!!!
ok, i have to get back to Peru.
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