Clip 2 - Travel Writing Sample - Alpamayo

Alpamayo, Cordillera Blanca, Peru - Posted July 2008

After seven days of approaching and climbing Alpamayo, we had descended to the trail head at the village of Quechapampa by 5 p.m. My partner, Brad, and I were worried about missing the last cambi (inexpensive public minibus) for the three hour ride back to Huaraz. Brad was leaving for Lima the following day, so it was urgent that we make it back to Huaraz that night. Just as we arrived at the trail head, we serendipitously met two French climbers hiking out. Their English and Spanish were not much better than my non-existent French. Immediately I knew we needed the French guys to help us obtain an affordable ride to Huaraz. Seconds later, two taxi´s arrive, one from each direction on the one-lane dirt road that constitutes most of Quechapampa. All taxi's in Peru are small white Toyota Corollas with impossibly small tires. There we stood, juxtaposition in the road - 1 trail head, 2 dirty Americans, 2 dirty French, 2 identical taxis facing hood to hood, 2 taxi drivers, 1 arriero (our donkey driver), 1 overloaded small donkey, and 4 idling compensinos (local peasants). The negotiations began with all of us huddled over the hood of a taxi - the taxi drivers argued 180 Soles for the ride to Huaraz, the Americans demanded no more than 70, the French obtained an expensive rate from one driver to the wrong village, the compensinos teased the drivers for overcharging the gringos, the donkey was tired, the drivers were trying not to compete and lower the price, the arriero told the Americans it should cost 120, the Americans insisted the French join them, the French were still negotiating a two person fare to the wrong village, the arriero smiled and laughed, the drivers began to look nervous, the Americans pretended to walk away in disgust, one driver broke down to 140 Soles, the Americans emphatically convinced the French that the 4 of us need to take the 140. Deal done.