Denali National Park, Ruth Glacier, Alaska - Posted May 2008.
The Ruth Glacier is one of large glaciers that has sculpted the flanks of some of the great peaks in Denali National Park. The glacier begins at Denali and sinuously flows down valley, growing larger as it merges with smaller tributary glaciers. Thirty miles later to the south of Denali the glacier terminates at a moraine boulder field and the braided Chulitna River.
About midway down the glacier is The Ruth Gorge, or "The Gorge" as locals call it. The Gorge earns its name from the escarpments of granite, snow, and ice that tower some 5,000 feet above the surface of the ice. Some of these guardians include The Mooses [sic] Tooth, Mt. Dickey, Mt. Barrille, and Mt. Bradley. The United States Geological Survey renamed the Mooses Tooth (albeit without the grammatically correct apostrophe) to reflect a translation of the original Athabascan name. At The Gorge, the glacial ice is close to a mile thick, over a mile wide, and moves at over three feet a day. The relatively low elevations, easy access by bush plane, and copious climbable peaks, has made The Gorge a destination for world-class climbers.
My partner Jason Kuo and I flew from Talkeeta, Alaska, into The Gorge in Paul Roderick's (Talkeetna Air Taxi) 1955 single-engine DeHavilland Beaver. We loaded the Beaver with 1,000 lbs. of gear into the cargo hold for 20 days of climbing in The Gorge.
Tuesday, November 4, 2008
Clip 2 - Travel Writing Sample - Alpamayo
Alpamayo, Cordillera Blanca, Peru - Posted July 2008
After seven days of approaching and climbing Alpamayo, we had descended to the trail head at the village of Quechapampa by 5 p.m. My partner, Brad, and I were worried about missing the last cambi (inexpensive public minibus) for the three hour ride back to Huaraz. Brad was leaving for Lima the following day, so it was urgent that we make it back to Huaraz that night. Just as we arrived at the trail head, we serendipitously met two French climbers hiking out. Their English and Spanish were not much better than my non-existent French. Immediately I knew we needed the French guys to help us obtain an affordable ride to Huaraz. Seconds later, two taxi´s arrive, one from each direction on the one-lane dirt road that constitutes most of Quechapampa. All taxi's in Peru are small white Toyota Corollas with impossibly small tires. There we stood, juxtaposition in the road - 1 trail head, 2 dirty Americans, 2 dirty French, 2 identical taxis facing hood to hood, 2 taxi drivers, 1 arriero (our donkey driver), 1 overloaded small donkey, and 4 idling compensinos (local peasants). The negotiations began with all of us huddled over the hood of a taxi - the taxi drivers argued 180 Soles for the ride to Huaraz, the Americans demanded no more than 70, the French obtained an expensive rate from one driver to the wrong village, the compensinos teased the drivers for overcharging the gringos, the donkey was tired, the drivers were trying not to compete and lower the price, the arriero told the Americans it should cost 120, the Americans insisted the French join them, the French were still negotiating a two person fare to the wrong village, the arriero smiled and laughed, the drivers began to look nervous, the Americans pretended to walk away in disgust, one driver broke down to 140 Soles, the Americans emphatically convinced the French that the 4 of us need to take the 140. Deal done.
After seven days of approaching and climbing Alpamayo, we had descended to the trail head at the village of Quechapampa by 5 p.m. My partner, Brad, and I were worried about missing the last cambi (inexpensive public minibus) for the three hour ride back to Huaraz. Brad was leaving for Lima the following day, so it was urgent that we make it back to Huaraz that night. Just as we arrived at the trail head, we serendipitously met two French climbers hiking out. Their English and Spanish were not much better than my non-existent French. Immediately I knew we needed the French guys to help us obtain an affordable ride to Huaraz. Seconds later, two taxi´s arrive, one from each direction on the one-lane dirt road that constitutes most of Quechapampa. All taxi's in Peru are small white Toyota Corollas with impossibly small tires. There we stood, juxtaposition in the road - 1 trail head, 2 dirty Americans, 2 dirty French, 2 identical taxis facing hood to hood, 2 taxi drivers, 1 arriero (our donkey driver), 1 overloaded small donkey, and 4 idling compensinos (local peasants). The negotiations began with all of us huddled over the hood of a taxi - the taxi drivers argued 180 Soles for the ride to Huaraz, the Americans demanded no more than 70, the French obtained an expensive rate from one driver to the wrong village, the compensinos teased the drivers for overcharging the gringos, the donkey was tired, the drivers were trying not to compete and lower the price, the arriero told the Americans it should cost 120, the Americans insisted the French join them, the French were still negotiating a two person fare to the wrong village, the arriero smiled and laughed, the drivers began to look nervous, the Americans pretended to walk away in disgust, one driver broke down to 140 Soles, the Americans emphatically convinced the French that the 4 of us need to take the 140. Deal done.
Clip 3 - Cultural Writing Sample
"WKRP in Cincinnati" - Posted August 2008
"WKRP in Cincinnati" was a television sitcom from the mid-1970´s that was shown in voluminous syndication during the 1980´s. WKRP were the call letters for a struggling radio station that played rock music and some news. One of the disc jockeys was Johnny Fever. Johnny wore red tinted sunglasses when inside the WKRP office, as well as in the darkened studio. Johnny´s other omnipresent characteristics included long hair, a large coffee mug gripped by a cocked arm, and a black band t-shirt. Johnny was usually nursing a hangover with a demeanor suggestive of self medication. Johnny had an apathetic way of addressing his radio audience as he was convinced no one was listening to the broadcast. He was so convinced that during one episode he decided to speak an unutterable word on the air to prove no one was listening. He leaned close to the microphone and maybe even raised his sunglasses to his forehead and said¨"Booger!". Of course, there were a few folks listening and Johnny was summoned to the bosses office and fired.
I suspect only a few friends and family are also reading this blog so.....BOOGER!!! Okay, I have to get back to Peru.
"WKRP in Cincinnati" was a television sitcom from the mid-1970´s that was shown in voluminous syndication during the 1980´s. WKRP were the call letters for a struggling radio station that played rock music and some news. One of the disc jockeys was Johnny Fever. Johnny wore red tinted sunglasses when inside the WKRP office, as well as in the darkened studio. Johnny´s other omnipresent characteristics included long hair, a large coffee mug gripped by a cocked arm, and a black band t-shirt. Johnny was usually nursing a hangover with a demeanor suggestive of self medication. Johnny had an apathetic way of addressing his radio audience as he was convinced no one was listening to the broadcast. He was so convinced that during one episode he decided to speak an unutterable word on the air to prove no one was listening. He leaned close to the microphone and maybe even raised his sunglasses to his forehead and said¨"Booger!". Of course, there were a few folks listening and Johnny was summoned to the bosses office and fired.
I suspect only a few friends and family are also reading this blog so.....BOOGER!!! Okay, I have to get back to Peru.
Sunday, September 28, 2008
Huanchaco
Huanchaco is a small sleepy surf town about 15 minutes from Trujillo. it is way chill, the beach is very inviting and i initially came for just 3 days but ended up staying 7! temps have largely been excellent, wtih some sun and clouds. i really liked it here. so relaxing and small and athe beach super nice.
surfed some, saw a few ruins like Chan Chan and Huaca del Sol y Luna. read alot on the beach, got sunburned, met new friends, went with some new friends and guys from my surf shop to a discoteca last night until 5 am. the type of place with a line of folks trying to get in that streatched around the block, had multiple rooms, a band, and a dance club room (which had 6 elevated cages with scantily clad woman dancing! just like in the movies!). needless to say, we spent most of the night in the dance club room.
now, i am off to Trujillo today, Sunday, to see museums, then catch a night bus back to Lima, see one more acheological site on Monday, then i fly out that night back home!
surfed some, saw a few ruins like Chan Chan and Huaca del Sol y Luna. read alot on the beach, got sunburned, met new friends, went with some new friends and guys from my surf shop to a discoteca last night until 5 am. the type of place with a line of folks trying to get in that streatched around the block, had multiple rooms, a band, and a dance club room (which had 6 elevated cages with scantily clad woman dancing! just like in the movies!). needless to say, we spent most of the night in the dance club room.
now, i am off to Trujillo today, Sunday, to see museums, then catch a night bus back to Lima, see one more acheological site on Monday, then i fly out that night back home!
Huaca del Sol y Luna
Most of these pics are from archeological site south of Trujillo, Huaca del Sol y Luna. It consists of 4 pyramids built one on top of the other. On the outside of each pyramid were terraces painted with friezes on the adobe bricks. the friezes depict some daily life but mostly gods, kings, spiders, snakes, fighting scenes, slaves, etc. The people who made these were the Moche people who dominated the north coast of Peru from about 200 AD to 700 AD.
To get to Huaca del Sol y Luna, it took me 2 hours of riding in combis (small Toyota minibuses used for public transport and fit up to 25 folks), wandering around Trujillo asking for directions to the next aleged combi. cost was about $0.75 and boy was i was crammed in there!
To get to Huaca del Sol y Luna, it took me 2 hours of riding in combis (small Toyota minibuses used for public transport and fit up to 25 folks), wandering around Trujillo asking for directions to the next aleged combi. cost was about $0.75 and boy was i was crammed in there!
Monday, September 22, 2008
The Racine Kringle
Racine Kringle is a flat oval Danish pastry with a hole in the middle, about one and one-half feet in diameter and one inch thick. The dough is flaky and often filled with fruit, chocolate, pecan, or almond. Vanilla or chocolate iceing usually covers the top like the drippy coating on a doughnut.
Kringle is only found in Racine, Wisconsin, so I reverently refer to it as The Racine Kringle. The people of Racine have great pride in their Kringle and each gets them from their own favorite Danish bakery, much like their own favorite linebacker with the Greenbay Packers. It takes three days to make The Racine Kringle, and it is always purchased on thin white waxy paperboard wrapped in wax paper.
Last holiday season I was leaving Wisconsin with 3 kringles carefully wrapped in a carbboard box specifially designed for shipping The Racine Kringle without damage. The box was marked with my favorite bakerys logo on all sides and top. The kringle box didnt go in my luggage or even my carry-on. Rather, i carried it through the airport. At the security line, the lady checing ID{s and tickets made a wise crack comment on "The Danish" she called it. Wrong name lady. As I placed the box on teh conveyer for X-raying, the land of serious security and no joking around, even though everyone resists the urge to make bomb jokes. The head security officer for the x-ray area slooshes his overweight frame slowy toward me like a homicide detective with questions. Hands on his hips, he looks at me over his glasses from eyes that are a little too close together and says in a slow, serious tone, oozing with Wisconin accent, "Yah know, Kringles been known to dissapear in them x-ray machines."
Kringle is only found in Racine, Wisconsin, so I reverently refer to it as The Racine Kringle. The people of Racine have great pride in their Kringle and each gets them from their own favorite Danish bakery, much like their own favorite linebacker with the Greenbay Packers. It takes three days to make The Racine Kringle, and it is always purchased on thin white waxy paperboard wrapped in wax paper.
Last holiday season I was leaving Wisconsin with 3 kringles carefully wrapped in a carbboard box specifially designed for shipping The Racine Kringle without damage. The box was marked with my favorite bakerys logo on all sides and top. The kringle box didnt go in my luggage or even my carry-on. Rather, i carried it through the airport. At the security line, the lady checing ID{s and tickets made a wise crack comment on "The Danish" she called it. Wrong name lady. As I placed the box on teh conveyer for X-raying, the land of serious security and no joking around, even though everyone resists the urge to make bomb jokes. The head security officer for the x-ray area slooshes his overweight frame slowy toward me like a homicide detective with questions. Hands on his hips, he looks at me over his glasses from eyes that are a little too close together and says in a slow, serious tone, oozing with Wisconin accent, "Yah know, Kringles been known to dissapear in them x-ray machines."
Sunday, September 21, 2008
WKRP
"WKRP in Cinncinati" was a mid-1970´s television sitcom that was shown in voluminous syndication during the 1980´s, when i was a child watching about 6 hours of TV a day. WKRP was the call name for a struggleing radio staiton that played a variety of rock music as well as news. One of the disc jockys was Johnny Fever, who wore rose tinted sunglasses inside the WKRP office, as well as in the darkened studio. Johnny´s other omnipresent characteristics included long graying hair, a large coffee mug gripped by a cocked arm, and a black band t-shirt. Johnny was usually nurseing a hangover with a demeanure suggesting he medicated himself every morning. Johnny had an apathetic lethargic way of addressing his audience because he was convinced no one was listening to his broadcast. He was so convinced of this that during one episode he decided to speak an un-utterable word on the air to prove that no one was listening. He leaned close to the microphone and maybe even raised his glasses to his forehead and said¨"Booger!". Of course, there were a few folks listening and Johnny was summoned to the bosses office and fired.
i suspect only a few friends and family are also reading this blog so.....BOOGER!!!
ok, i have to get back to Peru.
i suspect only a few friends and family are also reading this blog so.....BOOGER!!!
ok, i have to get back to Peru.
Cusco and Machu Pichu
Doug and I hung out in Cusco for a few days and saw some cool Inca ruins in town and outside of town, and ate a bunch of Andean food. Then we took the Peru Rail tourist train to Aguas Calientes, which is a total tourist dive but also the portal town to Machu Pichu. the next morning we were going to get up at 4:30 so we could start hiking a one hour long trail to Machu Pichu to avoid the bus crowds. but we awoke to heavy rain so we took teh bus at 6 am. although our big overviews of Machu Pichu were partly obscured, and it rained much of the time, the ruins were still amazing. and we beat most of the folks by seeing the ruins from 6am to 10 am. we returned to our swanking hotel in Cusco that afternoon via the train and flew to Lima the next morning. Doug left for home yesterday and now i am in Huanchaco, outside of Trujillo, checking out the mild surf, beaches, and generally just chilling out.
Friday, September 12, 2008
Lake Titicaca
The bus ride to Puno, the port town to Lake Titicaca, went over a 14,300 foot pass. Doug hadn´t been over 10,000 before so it was a first for him. we arrived in Puno and took a mototaxi to our hotel. a mototaxi is a motorcycle with two covered seats attached to the back over two wheels. we walked around a bit, shopped for alpaca textiles, and then i got diarea and doug got altitude sickness. so we went to bed at like 7. and skipped dinner. our lunch that day was a great empanada with meat inside and deep friend whole potato and fresh juice for 2 dollars. rad.
next day we hit the lake. Lake Titicaca and Puno are at about 12,300 feet. yikes, Dougs been breathing hard. we took a boat out onto the lake to visit the floating islands made of reeds. the island is called Uros and the reeds are harvested right there in the shalllow bay next to Puno. the reeds are basically closed cell fibers so they float. the islands are about 10 feet thick of reeds and the water about 25 feet deep. they just keep adding more reeds on top. its is pretty spungy. they took us across to another island in their reed boats to a restaurant on reeds were we ate friend trout and potatoes. always potatoes in peru. hell, they were domesticated here.
next day we hit the lake. Lake Titicaca and Puno are at about 12,300 feet. yikes, Dougs been breathing hard. we took a boat out onto the lake to visit the floating islands made of reeds. the island is called Uros and the reeds are harvested right there in the shalllow bay next to Puno. the reeds are basically closed cell fibers so they float. the islands are about 10 feet thick of reeds and the water about 25 feet deep. they just keep adding more reeds on top. its is pretty spungy. they took us across to another island in their reed boats to a restaurant on reeds were we ate friend trout and potatoes. always potatoes in peru. hell, they were domesticated here.
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
Lima, Miraflores, and Nasca Lines
Well Doug Davenport arrived and we went to downtown Lima to visit the catacombs of the Monastery of San Francisco (lots of human bones in the catacombs as most folks in town were buried there under the monastery, wild hey?). we then jumped on a public bus to find an art museum and rode through some marginal barrios of Lima. the wealth contrast in Peru, but especially Lima, is strikeing. we had excellent coffee and cake at a random cafe somewhere in the middle of nowhere in a Lima barrio on our way to find the art museum. the museum was closed cause we burned most of the day just trying to get around town and find the place.
then we went home to Miraflores and Barranco and had dinner and drinks. the pics show the awesome colonial downtown Lima, some typical Lima barrios (we didnt go to the real slums), and also some of Mirafloes (the rich suburb). you can identify the Miraflores pics by the modern 70s style buidlings, and stores like Starbucks, Burger King and a McCafe (you guessed it - starbucks for Mcdonalds).
next we took a day bus to Nasca to see the Nasca lines, which were made in the desert soil about 3000 years ago for unknown reasons. can you say UFO??? creapy, but wild. they thingk the lines were made for religious reasons tied to the stars and agricultural seasons, rainfall, etc. the pics dont show it much justice so maybe google them real fast for a quick picture or two. then our last night we got drunk on the Peruvian beer, Crystal, and took an all night bus to Arequipa (not recommended - the night bus AND drinking before it....yikes,). i have no pics of arequipa, which as a beautiful Plaza de Aramas and we just stayed in town for two day and visited an old monastery.
then we went home to Miraflores and Barranco and had dinner and drinks. the pics show the awesome colonial downtown Lima, some typical Lima barrios (we didnt go to the real slums), and also some of Mirafloes (the rich suburb). you can identify the Miraflores pics by the modern 70s style buidlings, and stores like Starbucks, Burger King and a McCafe (you guessed it - starbucks for Mcdonalds).
next we took a day bus to Nasca to see the Nasca lines, which were made in the desert soil about 3000 years ago for unknown reasons. can you say UFO??? creapy, but wild. they thingk the lines were made for religious reasons tied to the stars and agricultural seasons, rainfall, etc. the pics dont show it much justice so maybe google them real fast for a quick picture or two. then our last night we got drunk on the Peruvian beer, Crystal, and took an all night bus to Arequipa (not recommended - the night bus AND drinking before it....yikes,). i have no pics of arequipa, which as a beautiful Plaza de Aramas and we just stayed in town for two day and visited an old monastery.
Bouldering Last Week
Went bouldering last week with a fun international group - Californian, Brazilian, Israeli, German, and Australian. See pics.
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
Karma de los Condores
Karma de los Condores is a new, yet, classic nine pitch route in Quebrada Ishinca. it goes at 5.11plus and has been called the Astroman of Peru. i should have known that i cannot climb Astroman or Karma de los Condores, but we tried anyway.
we climbed the first pitch and half and bailed. my partner got scared, and as i think he climbs stronger than me, i also got scared from the safe location of the pedestal belay. so, we rapped and ate lots of food at base camp. its cool, i am pretty burned out on climbing anyway and this marks the end of my 4 month alpine road trip. i am now shifting to being a tourist and am leaving for Lima tonight. then i go home to the Bay, then Wisconsin, then Utah for October. November will be couch surfing in the Bay Area, then month long Amtrak ride to Denver, Chicago, Wisconsin for Christmas followed by Portland for New Years Eve. then, if i have any money left, back to the Bay to start the part of my life that contributes to society. likley in teaching.
-chris
we climbed the first pitch and half and bailed. my partner got scared, and as i think he climbs stronger than me, i also got scared from the safe location of the pedestal belay. so, we rapped and ate lots of food at base camp. its cool, i am pretty burned out on climbing anyway and this marks the end of my 4 month alpine road trip. i am now shifting to being a tourist and am leaving for Lima tonight. then i go home to the Bay, then Wisconsin, then Utah for October. November will be couch surfing in the Bay Area, then month long Amtrak ride to Denver, Chicago, Wisconsin for Christmas followed by Portland for New Years Eve. then, if i have any money left, back to the Bay to start the part of my life that contributes to society. likley in teaching.
-chris
Saturday, August 30, 2008
Back to Ishinca
After hanging in town for about two weeks with a few days sport climbing at Hatun Machay and bouldering near town, i am off again to Quebrada Ishinca for three days to climb a nine pitch rock climb, Karma de los Condores. i am going with Kelly Carbone who i know from Oakland, CA, and Alex from Brazil. it is a hard but safe rock climb, famed as the Astroman of Peru. we will see.
i´ll be back in town Tuesday afternoon.
-cj
i´ll be back in town Tuesday afternoon.
-cj
Friday, August 22, 2008
Chavin de Huantar
Spent a day at the ruins of Chavin de Huantar that are about 2 hours from Huaraz.
The ruins are Eguiptian aged, around 3,500 to 4,000 years old, some of the olderst in South America.
The ruins are Eguiptian aged, around 3,500 to 4,000 years old, some of the olderst in South America.
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| Chavin de Huantar |
Friday, August 15, 2008
Ranrapalca, The North Face
Twenty-two hours is how long it took to climb the North Face of Ranrapalca. Climbing Ranrapalca is representative of my new understanding of what it means to be an "alpinist".
The climb started with 4 days in the Quebrada Ishinca base camp (14,500 ft) waiting for the rain and snow to dissapate. On the 4th day we shuttled a load of gear to the Ranrapalca high camp (17,000 ft) and returned to base camp. On the 5th day we carried the last load to the high camp in the rain and set up a hopefull camp there. On the 6th day, the sky cleared to a miraculously blue cloudless sky! Wonderful. This day consisted of us sleeping in until 10 - eating, napping, eating some more, drinking fluids, scoping out the approach to the climb, more napping, eating, and reading. Went to bed at 6 to get up at 11 pm! all the sleep and eating the day before was to charge us for meager 5 hours of sleep before the climb. we left camp at 12:20am, started climbing the 3,000 ft wall in the dark at 1:30. with headlamps we simulclimbed through some easy 50 degree snow, hard rock, thin ice (JJK, the ice was rotten and about 2 inches thick over rock) to about the half way point when the sun came up. we sumilclimbed some more through more ice and snow to the middle snow finger you can see on the pics of the face. just then the sun hit the face around 8 or 9 and rock and ice started falling down the face but we were tucked safely in the snow couloir by then. buy this time i got really exhausted as i hadn't fully recovered from my previous Shaqsha climb and subsequent fever sickness. so i slowed us way down. at the top of the snow couloir i led over the final rock band, which was loose 5.9 at 20,000. holy cow, that was scary. we summitted at 2:30. our rack consisted of 2 screws, 2 pickets, 8 nuts, 4 cams, 1 hex, and 4 pitons, and we protected the climb with almost exclusively the rock gear. Boy, i don´t won´t climb an alpine climb without those lovely pitons (two KBs and 2 baby angles).
On the summit ridge we post holed in deep powder toward the decent route, the north east face. AFter two long rappels on rock the sun set. We did 4 rappels in the dark on snow from rap stations of two snow bollards, a picket which we left, and a screw. We left the picket and screw without hesitation. then we had to navigate through a heavily crevassed glacier for hours, finding our own way as we were the first party on the mountain after the most recent storm so there were no tracks anywhere. we arrived at our high camp around 10pm. our Argentinian friends were camped next to us and had hot tea for us. most of which i didnt enjoy as i just passed out in my tent. 22 hours round trip. holycow, i am still tired.
The climb started with 4 days in the Quebrada Ishinca base camp (14,500 ft) waiting for the rain and snow to dissapate. On the 4th day we shuttled a load of gear to the Ranrapalca high camp (17,000 ft) and returned to base camp. On the 5th day we carried the last load to the high camp in the rain and set up a hopefull camp there. On the 6th day, the sky cleared to a miraculously blue cloudless sky! Wonderful. This day consisted of us sleeping in until 10 - eating, napping, eating some more, drinking fluids, scoping out the approach to the climb, more napping, eating, and reading. Went to bed at 6 to get up at 11 pm! all the sleep and eating the day before was to charge us for meager 5 hours of sleep before the climb. we left camp at 12:20am, started climbing the 3,000 ft wall in the dark at 1:30. with headlamps we simulclimbed through some easy 50 degree snow, hard rock, thin ice (JJK, the ice was rotten and about 2 inches thick over rock) to about the half way point when the sun came up. we sumilclimbed some more through more ice and snow to the middle snow finger you can see on the pics of the face. just then the sun hit the face around 8 or 9 and rock and ice started falling down the face but we were tucked safely in the snow couloir by then. buy this time i got really exhausted as i hadn't fully recovered from my previous Shaqsha climb and subsequent fever sickness. so i slowed us way down. at the top of the snow couloir i led over the final rock band, which was loose 5.9 at 20,000. holy cow, that was scary. we summitted at 2:30. our rack consisted of 2 screws, 2 pickets, 8 nuts, 4 cams, 1 hex, and 4 pitons, and we protected the climb with almost exclusively the rock gear. Boy, i don´t won´t climb an alpine climb without those lovely pitons (two KBs and 2 baby angles).
On the summit ridge we post holed in deep powder toward the decent route, the north east face. AFter two long rappels on rock the sun set. We did 4 rappels in the dark on snow from rap stations of two snow bollards, a picket which we left, and a screw. We left the picket and screw without hesitation. then we had to navigate through a heavily crevassed glacier for hours, finding our own way as we were the first party on the mountain after the most recent storm so there were no tracks anywhere. we arrived at our high camp around 10pm. our Argentinian friends were camped next to us and had hot tea for us. most of which i didnt enjoy as i just passed out in my tent. 22 hours round trip. holycow, i am still tired.
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| Ranrapalca |
Tuesday, August 5, 2008
Shaqsha
Shaqsha was, let´s say, a little rigorous. Arriving at the village of Huaripampa in the morning, my partners James (from Austalia), Kyle (from Seatle) and I were unable to locate any burros to carry our gear to mountain. Shaqsha is a rarely visited peak, so there is not a climber-friendly infrastructure like the other trail heads. but that is partially what drew us to the climb, the adventure of going to the mountains without burros, refugeos, other climbers, and a well warn trail through the snow to the summit.
The town Mayor or doctor (as identified based on being a well-dressed, charismatic guy in a leather jacket who knew everyone in town and certainly didn´t seem like a farmer) informed us that all the burros were being used for construction of a building outside of town. Soooo, we hiked the 7.5 hours to base camp with our heavy packs across country with no trails, burros, or people. then James and I woke at 2 in the morning the next day for the 13 hours summit push, Kyle was sick and didn´t join. We climbed for 13 hours with 4 hours used to decend the 6 pitch climb with only one rope. this meant i had to make about 4 additional V-thread rappel stations in the ice (see photo of one) and we had to downclimb about 5 pitches. it was exhausting but that is what we were looking for, a little adventure. It was a really nice climb up a beautiful southern arete that should be a classic, with steep snow of mostly 50 degrees but up to 80 degrees and some ice pitches up to about 70 degrees. in the pics, our line is the right most arete, it is the same line that is on the cover of the Brad Johnson Guidebook. after the climb, the next day, we had an exhausting 5.5 hour hike out along a aquiduct canal. i am destroyed, and taking two full days off in town doing nothing but reading, writting, eating, and lots of sleeping.
much amore para mi todos amigos,
-Chris
The town Mayor or doctor (as identified based on being a well-dressed, charismatic guy in a leather jacket who knew everyone in town and certainly didn´t seem like a farmer) informed us that all the burros were being used for construction of a building outside of town. Soooo, we hiked the 7.5 hours to base camp with our heavy packs across country with no trails, burros, or people. then James and I woke at 2 in the morning the next day for the 13 hours summit push, Kyle was sick and didn´t join. We climbed for 13 hours with 4 hours used to decend the 6 pitch climb with only one rope. this meant i had to make about 4 additional V-thread rappel stations in the ice (see photo of one) and we had to downclimb about 5 pitches. it was exhausting but that is what we were looking for, a little adventure. It was a really nice climb up a beautiful southern arete that should be a classic, with steep snow of mostly 50 degrees but up to 80 degrees and some ice pitches up to about 70 degrees. in the pics, our line is the right most arete, it is the same line that is on the cover of the Brad Johnson Guidebook. after the climb, the next day, we had an exhausting 5.5 hour hike out along a aquiduct canal. i am destroyed, and taking two full days off in town doing nothing but reading, writting, eating, and lots of sleeping.
much amore para mi todos amigos,
-Chris
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| Shaqsha |
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Quebrada Llanganuco, Pisco
Climbed Pisco in Quebrada Llanganuco. It was a pretty easy hike, but it was still a lot of heavy breathing. i think the summit was around 18,500 ft.
i think i am getting good a the logistics of Peruvian transportation because i don´t have any fun stories to go along with this peak. Except that there were 30 British high school students climbing the peak also. Wow, that was a logistical masterpiece to witness with guides, teachers, porters, burros, cooks etc. The students would crowd into the little refugeo (backcountry cabin with food and beer at base camp) rolling about 15 deep and overwhelm the place. but sometimes they would play guitar and sing, so it made it ok. then the old guys like me and some others even older guys from Colorado would join and we´d all be playing and singing old tunes. it worked out just fine.
i am back in Huaraz for a couple more days.
-Chris
i think i am getting good a the logistics of Peruvian transportation because i don´t have any fun stories to go along with this peak. Except that there were 30 British high school students climbing the peak also. Wow, that was a logistical masterpiece to witness with guides, teachers, porters, burros, cooks etc. The students would crowd into the little refugeo (backcountry cabin with food and beer at base camp) rolling about 15 deep and overwhelm the place. but sometimes they would play guitar and sing, so it made it ok. then the old guys like me and some others even older guys from Colorado would join and we´d all be playing and singing old tunes. it worked out just fine.
i am back in Huaraz for a couple more days.
-Chris
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| Quebrada Llanganuco |
Thursday, July 24, 2008
Hatun Machay
I needed a break from ice and snow in the Cordillera Blanca, as well as from the traffic and holiday festivities of Huaraz. So, I booked a ride to Hatun Machay. I met four Israeli´s on the ride out there and we rock climbed at Hatun Machay (at a mellow 14,000 feet) and stayed in the recently built but rustic refugeo.
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| Hatun Machay |
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Alpamayo - French Direct
Alpamayo, Quechua for "muddy river", is one of the most saught after peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. It took us 7 days to climb the mountain with days of hiking, approaching, resting, and climbing. The approach from base camp (14,500 feet) to the high camp (18,000 feet) was through a glacier that required some difficult AI3 ice climbing with heavy packs laidened with supplies for 3 days. After a rest day at the high camp and very little sleep, we set out to climb Alpamayo at 1:30 a.m. The first snow and ice was climbed in the dark by headlamp and a full moon. Temperatures were around 10 degrees F and our insulated water froze. Gu, Snickers, and Powerbars are hard to swallow at 19,000 feet without water. With dry mouths we pushed on through the 65 degree ice. By sunrise we were into the 2nd pitch of ice and were pelted by ice from 4 Peruvian climbers above, erg. We likely sent ice down to the 4 Basque climbers below us! After 4 or 5 long pitches of AI3 ice, we summitted at 10 a.m. at 19,500 feet. We rappeled the route over the Basque folks using old v-threads and fixed pickets and were back at high camp by 1:00 p.m.
Two days after summitting Alpamayo, we arrived at the trailhead at the village of Quechapampa at 5 p.m. Brad and I were worried about not finding a collectivo (inexpensive public bus) for the 3 hour ride to Huaraz. Brad was leaving for Lima the following day, so our urgency to get to Huaraz was hightened. Serendipidously at the trailhead, we met two French climbers hiking out behind us and who´s English and Spanish were as good as my French. Immediately I knew we needed to team with the French to gain a ride to Huaraz at a reasonable fare. Four seconds after meeting the French two taxi´s arrive, one from each direction on the one-lane dirt road that constitutes most of Quechapampa. Juxtiposition in the dirt road - 1 trailhead, 2 dirty Americans, 2 dirty French, 2 white identical Toyota Corolla taxis facing hood to hood, 2 taxi drivers (cabbies), 1 arriero (our burro driver) and 1 overloaded small burro, and 4 idling compensinos (local farmers). The negotiations began with the 12 of us huddled over the hood of a taxi - the cabbies argued 180 Soles, the Americans demanded no more than 80, the French discussed wtih each other and cajoled one cabbie on paper for a price for two to an intermediary village, the compensinos teased the cabbies about overcharging the gringos, the burro was tired, the cabbies were trying not to compete and lower the price, the arriero told the Americans it should cost 120, the Americans insisted the French to join them as a team of 4, the French were still negotiating a 2 person fare to the wrong village, the arriero smiled and laughed, the cabbies began to sweat, the Americans pretended to walk away in disgust, one cabbie broke down to 140 Soles, the Americans emphatically convinced the French that the 4 of us need to take the 140 - its a good deal!
Deal done, but the most dangerous part of the climb comes next. Four climbers and one taxi (all taxis in Peru are late 90s Toyota Corolla wagons with tiny tires) barrel down 4,000 veritcal feet of one-lane dirt road, winding and contouring along the mountain topography tailgating behind a dump truck! The dust behind the truck formed an urban whiteout but the taxi continued to tailgate and honk his horn every 3 seconds signalling his desire to pass. With dust all over the inside of the car and our faces, I had the terrifiying position of sitting in the front seat! Finally passing the truck, the cab continued to race around blind corners honking to alert potential on-coming traffic on the one-lane dirt road. Sitting shotgun, I witnessed the narrow calculated misses of dogs, potholes, other taxis, grandmothers, and children. With each close pass, the cabbie gave a strong 3 toots of the horn. It was a tense 3 hour ride.
Maybe this is why I climb.
-Chris
Two days after summitting Alpamayo, we arrived at the trailhead at the village of Quechapampa at 5 p.m. Brad and I were worried about not finding a collectivo (inexpensive public bus) for the 3 hour ride to Huaraz. Brad was leaving for Lima the following day, so our urgency to get to Huaraz was hightened. Serendipidously at the trailhead, we met two French climbers hiking out behind us and who´s English and Spanish were as good as my French. Immediately I knew we needed to team with the French to gain a ride to Huaraz at a reasonable fare. Four seconds after meeting the French two taxi´s arrive, one from each direction on the one-lane dirt road that constitutes most of Quechapampa. Juxtiposition in the dirt road - 1 trailhead, 2 dirty Americans, 2 dirty French, 2 white identical Toyota Corolla taxis facing hood to hood, 2 taxi drivers (cabbies), 1 arriero (our burro driver) and 1 overloaded small burro, and 4 idling compensinos (local farmers). The negotiations began with the 12 of us huddled over the hood of a taxi - the cabbies argued 180 Soles, the Americans demanded no more than 80, the French discussed wtih each other and cajoled one cabbie on paper for a price for two to an intermediary village, the compensinos teased the cabbies about overcharging the gringos, the burro was tired, the cabbies were trying not to compete and lower the price, the arriero told the Americans it should cost 120, the Americans insisted the French to join them as a team of 4, the French were still negotiating a 2 person fare to the wrong village, the arriero smiled and laughed, the cabbies began to sweat, the Americans pretended to walk away in disgust, one cabbie broke down to 140 Soles, the Americans emphatically convinced the French that the 4 of us need to take the 140 - its a good deal!
Deal done, but the most dangerous part of the climb comes next. Four climbers and one taxi (all taxis in Peru are late 90s Toyota Corolla wagons with tiny tires) barrel down 4,000 veritcal feet of one-lane dirt road, winding and contouring along the mountain topography tailgating behind a dump truck! The dust behind the truck formed an urban whiteout but the taxi continued to tailgate and honk his horn every 3 seconds signalling his desire to pass. With dust all over the inside of the car and our faces, I had the terrifiying position of sitting in the front seat! Finally passing the truck, the cab continued to race around blind corners honking to alert potential on-coming traffic on the one-lane dirt road. Sitting shotgun, I witnessed the narrow calculated misses of dogs, potholes, other taxis, grandmothers, and children. With each close pass, the cabbie gave a strong 3 toots of the horn. It was a tense 3 hour ride.
Maybe this is why I climb.
-Chris
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| Alpamayo - French Direct |
Friday, July 11, 2008
Quebrada Ishinca
Last Sunday we began our approach to acclimation peaks up Quebrada Ishinca. Our trip began with the young bus driver lashing our four 50 lb bags to the roof of the little collectivo (small toyota mini-bus used by locals for public transportation) with a single strand of thin cotton string. Brad Mastros and I shrugged our shoulders trusting the driver and crammed into a little bus with 12 other locals only for the bus to return to the depot due to road closures from a marathon race. So we dragged our bags to street corner and hailed down a much more expensive taxi to get us through the traffic jam and to the hills, but was also delayed by the race. During the taxi ride up the dirt road we had to pay and heavily negotiate (with our non-existent spanish) to get through road construction, an impromtu toll erected by compensinos (local poor farmers), a burro driver and two burros, and additional taxi ride up to the trailhead proper. I spent 10 minutes negotiating with a drunken compensino for his felt hat which was too small for me and had a large white and green stain on the front brim. I talked him down from 3 dollars to 1 dollar, then he backed out.
Four hours later the burros dropped out bags at base camp at 14,450 ft. in Quebrada Ishinca. After an acclimation hike day, we climbed an acclimatization peak, Urus, to 17,500 ft. It was easy so we planned to climb another acclimatization peak the next day. However, I spent the entire night wearing my down jacket and shivering in my zero degree bag with outside temperatures around 39 degrees. Each hour suddenly hot and droused in sweat, I would frantically try to open the tricky zipper of the sleeping bag, find my flip flops, grab a roll, and burst out the tent to the spot 20 feet from camp were my body would purge everything possible from every oriface. I spent the next 30 hours in the tent, slowing drinking warm Cyotmax drinks and eating easily digestible ramen noodles. Oh, praise to lovely ramen noodle gods for their magic! After the evening of purge and rehydration the following day, I was ready to go and attempt Toclaraju´s West Face Direct, a moderate ice climb at nearly 20,000. But clouds obscured the peaks so we decided to bail and arrange burros. Before we could arrange burros, the friendly Croatian expedition gave us three days of food including heavily smoked and salted Croatian pork that was over a month old! They insisted it was ok to eat, it tasted great and we´re not dead yet!
Heavy negotiations again were necessary to make the simplest contract with the burro driver, but we finally reached the trailhead Friday afternoon just in time to conjole our way onto another teams privately chartered collectivo for the ride back to Huaraz. By 4;00 that afternoon, we drank Cuzqueno negro, Peru´s local black ale vaguely reminescent of Berkeley´s Death and Taxes, as we sat on the plaza sharing gastrotestinal distress and other stories with fello climbers.
Pictures of Quebrada Ishinca and climbing Urus are here:
Salud!, Chris
Four hours later the burros dropped out bags at base camp at 14,450 ft. in Quebrada Ishinca. After an acclimation hike day, we climbed an acclimatization peak, Urus, to 17,500 ft. It was easy so we planned to climb another acclimatization peak the next day. However, I spent the entire night wearing my down jacket and shivering in my zero degree bag with outside temperatures around 39 degrees. Each hour suddenly hot and droused in sweat, I would frantically try to open the tricky zipper of the sleeping bag, find my flip flops, grab a roll, and burst out the tent to the spot 20 feet from camp were my body would purge everything possible from every oriface. I spent the next 30 hours in the tent, slowing drinking warm Cyotmax drinks and eating easily digestible ramen noodles. Oh, praise to lovely ramen noodle gods for their magic! After the evening of purge and rehydration the following day, I was ready to go and attempt Toclaraju´s West Face Direct, a moderate ice climb at nearly 20,000. But clouds obscured the peaks so we decided to bail and arrange burros. Before we could arrange burros, the friendly Croatian expedition gave us three days of food including heavily smoked and salted Croatian pork that was over a month old! They insisted it was ok to eat, it tasted great and we´re not dead yet!
Heavy negotiations again were necessary to make the simplest contract with the burro driver, but we finally reached the trailhead Friday afternoon just in time to conjole our way onto another teams privately chartered collectivo for the ride back to Huaraz. By 4;00 that afternoon, we drank Cuzqueno negro, Peru´s local black ale vaguely reminescent of Berkeley´s Death and Taxes, as we sat on the plaza sharing gastrotestinal distress and other stories with fello climbers.
Pictures of Quebrada Ishinca and climbing Urus are here:
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| Quebrada Ishinca |
Salud!, Chris
Friday, July 4, 2008
Frisbee at 10,200 feet
Today i played frisbee with some new friends from California Cafe (run by a couple from Santa Cruz). there were about 16 of us, a mix of locals and gringos. we all crammed into taxis for about 60 cents per person and headed up to a grassy field above Huaraz at an elevation of 10,200 feet with views overlooking the Cordillera Blanca. super awesome. we could also hear blasting from the local gold mine. i have only been acclimating for one day so the running was very very hard, especially when guarding the acclimated locals!!
is anyone actually reading these?
Ciao
is anyone actually reading these?
Ciao
Thursday, July 3, 2008
Arrived in Huaraz
Hola,
After 30 hours of traveling by air, taxi, and bus i arrived in Huaraz. During my flight over Lima, I saw all the shanty towns and a large tire dump on fire on the beach. My fist land experience was a 30 minute cab ride in the middle of town during rush hour! Wow, that was super crazy with all the calculated near misses with cars, buses, dogs and people. the drivers there are excellent. the first taxi guy wanted 130 soles, the second 55, the last 25 (about 9 dollars). the farther you get from the terminal, the less expensive it gets. I was overwhelmed with the smell of exhaust in Lima. my second experience in Lima was a four hour wait at the bus terminal in a bad part of town, but all of Lima seemed like a ´bad part of town´ to me. I was afraid to leave the terminal. The bus to Huaraz first went along the desert coast and the road cut into huge sand dunes hundreds of feet high that overlayed a volcanic rocky Pacific coast like California´s. Four six hours later we crested the 12,500 foot pass leading to Huaraz. Sealevel to 12,500 in six hours is the fasted i have ever accended, but the small headache passed upon arriving in Huaraz.
In Huaraz, all is good and my bags are in tact. my room cost me 5 dollars a night and the showers are caliente. the bed spread is all multicolor Peruvian style. i love it here so far but still am intimidated by my surroundings, local food, and my poor espanol. but that all will come soon. the elevation here in Huaraz is about 10,000 feet so i need to acclimate here for about 3 days before heading up into las quebradas (canyons) escalar los montanas (to climb the mountains). See my spanish is getting better all ready! i am playing ultimate frisbee in the mountains tomorrow afternoon with some Americans from a cafe! I could see staying here for a while. but i hope to go to Cusco and Lake Titicaca to teh south and possibly a surfing spot up north near the border with Ecuador.
_Chris
After 30 hours of traveling by air, taxi, and bus i arrived in Huaraz. During my flight over Lima, I saw all the shanty towns and a large tire dump on fire on the beach. My fist land experience was a 30 minute cab ride in the middle of town during rush hour! Wow, that was super crazy with all the calculated near misses with cars, buses, dogs and people. the drivers there are excellent. the first taxi guy wanted 130 soles, the second 55, the last 25 (about 9 dollars). the farther you get from the terminal, the less expensive it gets. I was overwhelmed with the smell of exhaust in Lima. my second experience in Lima was a four hour wait at the bus terminal in a bad part of town, but all of Lima seemed like a ´bad part of town´ to me. I was afraid to leave the terminal. The bus to Huaraz first went along the desert coast and the road cut into huge sand dunes hundreds of feet high that overlayed a volcanic rocky Pacific coast like California´s. Four six hours later we crested the 12,500 foot pass leading to Huaraz. Sealevel to 12,500 in six hours is the fasted i have ever accended, but the small headache passed upon arriving in Huaraz.
In Huaraz, all is good and my bags are in tact. my room cost me 5 dollars a night and the showers are caliente. the bed spread is all multicolor Peruvian style. i love it here so far but still am intimidated by my surroundings, local food, and my poor espanol. but that all will come soon. the elevation here in Huaraz is about 10,000 feet so i need to acclimate here for about 3 days before heading up into las quebradas (canyons) escalar los montanas (to climb the mountains). See my spanish is getting better all ready! i am playing ultimate frisbee in the mountains tomorrow afternoon with some Americans from a cafe! I could see staying here for a while. but i hope to go to Cusco and Lake Titicaca to teh south and possibly a surfing spot up north near the border with Ecuador.
_Chris
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| Huaraz |
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
Alaska 2008 Trip Report
For my Alaska 2008 photos, see the post below. The following is my trip report submitted to the Kansas City Climbing Club newsletter. Although I live in the San Francisco Bay Area now, I learned to climb in Kansas.
The Ruth Gorge
The Ruth Glacier is one of many large glaciers that has carved the flanks of some of the great peaks in the central Alaska Range, such as Denali, Mt. Hunter, Mt. Foraker, and Mt. Huntington. The glacier begins at Denali and sinuously flows down valley, growing larger as it merges with smaller tributary glaciers and finally melts out to a moraine boulder field and the braided Chulitna River about 30 miles from its start. The glacial ice is up to 3,800 feet thick, over a mile wide, and moves at average of 3.3 feet per day.
About halfway down its path, the glacier has carved The Ruth Gorge, or "The Gorge" as locals and climbers call it. The Gorge earns its name from the escarpments of granite, snow, and ice that tower some 5,000 feet above one either side of the glacier. Some of these guardians include The Mooses [sic] Tooth, Mt. Dickey, Mt. Barrille, and Mt. Bradley. The United States Geological Survey renamed the Mooses Tooth (albeit without the grammatically correct apostrophe) to reflect a translation of the original Athabascan name. With the relatively low elevations (4,500 to 10,200 ft), easy access via a bush plan outfitted with ski's, and so many steep walls, The Gorge has attracted climbers looking for short technical challenges.
My partner Jason Kuo and I flew to Alaska on April 16, 2008. Three days later we flew from Talkeetna into The Gorge in Paul Roderick's (Talkeetna Air Taxi) 1955 single-engine Cessna, "The Beaver", crammed with four clean climbers and about 1,000 lbs. of gear. We climbed, ate, drank, slept, laughed, froze, fried, and got scared in The Gorge for 20 days.
Day 1-2: Build base camp including Megamid kitchen and used snow saw for cutting blocks, and dug an avalanche test pit at the base of Japanese Couloir on Mt. Barrille. Perfect blue bird day!
Day 3: Climb Japanese Couloir on Mt. Barrille in about 8 hours round trip. The route was easier than anticipated due to the technical pitches being covered with 55 degree snow. Cornices were big on summit ridge. Downclimb route.
Day 4: Rest day, dry clothes, socialize along "Ruth Street" with neighbors. There were about 16 climbers in the Gorge.
Day 5: Ski up The Route Canal ice fall to the base of the Mooses Tooth. Another 8 climbers were camped up there and had been dropped off at the base of Mooses Tooth by the air taxi.
Day 6: Climb Ham and Eggs on the Mooses Tooth in 14 hours. Awesome! Mostly 45 degree snow with about 5 vertical steps of ice (WI4) and rock (5.6) that ranged from about 15 to 50 feet. 18 double rope rappels on fixed anchors of pins and nuts and V-threads.
Day 7: Rest day, hot temps.
Day 8: Climb rock traverse pitch (scary 5.9 in crampons) to get into the route Shaken, Not Stirred on the Mooses Tooth. Glad I had those knife blade pitons for the rock pitch. We bailed at a section called the narrows as the mixed and thin ice climbing was going to be over our heads so we rapped route on multiple single nut rap stations and other manky gack. Descend Route Canal in afternoon heat. i recommended traveling through the route canal in the morning due to objective hazards. We punched through a few small crevasses and had a hard time getting our heavy packs down the soft snow. Another party was almost hit by a falling serac. Party at base camp in Megamid kitchen with Salt Lake City, Seattle, and the Norwegian teams.
Day 9-11: Eight days of perfect blue bird days end with a storm whiteout and 2 feet of snow. Read, drink tea, shovel, eat, sleep, shovel, drink whiskey, read, eat, shovel, sleep, shovel.
Day 12: Weather is unsettled but climb Freezy Nuts on London Tower (WI3). Matt of Salt Lake City team solos up to join us. Tunnel through cornice, rap and downclimb route on v-threads, scary pins, and single nut anchors. More yikes.
Day 13: Rest day, weather still unsettled.
Day 14: Rest day and approach 10 miles up the Ruth Glacier in about 5 hours with super light packs to base of the southwest ridge of Peak 11,300.
Day 15: Wake to whiteout conditions. Wait in tent for conditions to improve. Bail at noon with difficulty following our tracks through a crevasse field. Finally arrive out of whiteout at base camp and big party in kitchen tent.
Day 16: Hang over, rest day, tend to blisters.
Day 17: Another rest day.
Day 18: Another rest day, weather still unsettled, some flurries, loosing motivation, Capilene shirt is starting to smell.
Day 19: Weather still unsettled but come to grips that this is normal for Alaska. Attempt first ascent on couloir on shoulder of Mt. Bradley. Bail due to lack of ice.
Day 20: Pack and fly out through brief weather window.
I think I spent a total of about 26 days in Alaska and it cost around $2,500. You could do it cheaper. The Bush pilot was about $550 because we were over weight with too much food. We spent about $900 on food (stupid), but most people could get by on about $400 food for two folks (use Costco in Anchorage). I estimate we ate about 4,000 calories a day. Temperatures in the shade was mostly 5 to 35 degree F, in the sun at base camp up to 65 degrees, and down to about -5 degrees on some of the coldest nights.
Monday, June 2, 2008
Owens River Gorge
Memorial Day Weekend found me at Owens River Gorge. I was trying to get back into rock climbing shape before my attempt at some big wall climbing on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. I hurt my back on one of the climbs and had to cancel my climbing plans for the next few weeks. So, I am back in the Bay Area, trying to heal my back so I can get back after it.
Portland
After Alaska I spent May 9 through May 20 in Portland and lived with my friends Tim and Gretchen Ganey in their beautiful house. We did some rock climbing but mostly drank beer and ate good food. Mari Gilmore can up for a few days during the week.
Alaska 2008 - The Ruth Gorge
April 14 - May 8 brought me to Anchorage, Alaska, then Talkeetna, and finally the Ruth Gorge in Denali National Park. We loaded 250 lbs of gear per person into the bush plane - "The Beaver", a 1955 single engine Cessna - and landed in the Ruth Gorge (The Gorge). The locals reverently refer to it as The Gorge because of the 5,000 foot escarpments of rock, snow, and ice that dramatically enclose the Ruth Glacier to the east and west.
My climbing partner, Jason Kuo, and I were on the Ruth Glacier for 20 days. We climbed Ham and Eggs and a few pitches of Shaken, Not Stirred on the Mooses Tooth, Japanese Couloir on Mt. Barrille, Freezy Nuts on London Tower. We attempted a first ascent of a couloir on Mt. Bradley, and attempted the southwest ridge of Peak 11,300. Our attempt at Peak 11,300 ended due to whiteout conditions.
View my pictures here:
View my partners pictures here: http://flickr.com/photos/jjkuo/sets/72157604962714521/show/
My climbing partner, Jason Kuo, and I were on the Ruth Glacier for 20 days. We climbed Ham and Eggs and a few pitches of Shaken, Not Stirred on the Mooses Tooth, Japanese Couloir on Mt. Barrille, Freezy Nuts on London Tower. We attempted a first ascent of a couloir on Mt. Bradley, and attempted the southwest ridge of Peak 11,300. Our attempt at Peak 11,300 ended due to whiteout conditions.
View my pictures here:
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| Alaska_200 |
View my partners pictures here: http://flickr.com/photos/jjkuo
Saturday, April 12, 2008
Friday, February 1, 2008
First Day of the Rest of My Life
Decided to quit my job in February and change my life. Life is too short to not be doing what you want to do.
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